Day 19 Williamsburg

Virginia is riddled with pancake houses! Not sure why, but they are everywhere!! Apparently Virginians like their pancakes and waffles? Anyway, when in Rome...so this morning we were off to the Astronomical Pancake and Waffle House for breakfast. For some the “astronomical” may have been a clue. For these travelers, intent on breaking their fast, not so much. To be fair, we ordered just the pancakes from the menu – no upsizing, no sides. What arrived at our table could feed four small villages! It was so big that Cliff discovered the best way to eat it was to keep turning the plate so we began to describe eating 15 minutes worth, 25 minutes worth, ...While we gave it the old college try, none of us managed to clean our plates. We agreed that one plate shared among four of us would have been about right! We were pretty sure it was a great way to prepare for a busy day though since we were all confident that we wouldn’t have to bother to stop again for food ...before Thursday!

The sign over their heads identifies them as astronomical customers

Along the way yesterday we had passed a store called Christmas Mouse. Unable to resist and with friends willing to enable, we stopped there next. Good heavens above, it is the place Christmas threw up on – a very large, two-story store with everything Christmas in every conceivable nook and cranny. I was completely overwhelmed! The only thing I managed to buy was a cute little hair clip for Ceci that was a Santa hat fascinator! I just couldn’t settle down beyond that to make a decision...OK and maybe we already have a lot of Christmas stuff and really didn’t have much need!

Then it was back to Williamsburg for day two of exploring. When we first bought the pass I wondered if there was really three days worth of exploration. Each time we would go into a home or business I would think, OK I have heard it all now and the rest will be same-old-same-old. I couldn’t have been more wrong with either thought. Every stop offers a new perspective. There is surprisingly little repetition and apart from one stop at the Governors Palace (more about this later!) the presentations are all outstanding!

Today we started at the Capitol Building. All three forms of government were contained within the building and there was an alarming incestuous flavor with the King of England having a hand in all matters through his representative in the Fifth Colony, the Governor. The House of Bergesses or the lower house managed the affairs of the day. Three (future) presidents served the House of Bergesses in Virginia – George Washington, Thomas Jefferson and James Monroe. At the time of the rebellion Virginia stretched up to the Great Lakes and took in much of what we now know as the continental US. The War of Independence was led from Virginia in this country’s quest for freedom from British Rule but at the time that meant a sizable slice of the continent!

This House of Burgessess served as what we would now refer to as criminal court. The courthouse we visited yesterday heard cases of a minor nature but this body judged matters disputed in the lower court (appeals) and crimes such as murder, theft, anything considered more serious at the time (horse stealing was a big one!). The idea that those convicted of a crime would be “penitent” given time was not common. Penitentiaries had not yet been built and the jails were very small, meant only to hold those awaiting trial. The only options for those convicted in the House of Bergesses was hanging or branding. Branding also served the purpose of public record. If you were convicted and branded there was neither starting over nor hiding it. Your record was clearly evident on the palm of your left hand and if you found yourself in court again hanging was automatic!

Because this chair had been moved to the new state capitol in Richmond after the war, it was saved from a fire. So now returned, it is the only original piece of furniture in the building.

Our guide.

Looking out the House of Bergesses into the town. Coffee House is the white building to the right - well situated!

Jailer's wife.

Jailer inviting us in for a visit.

Liz figuring out which way to go next!

Just wandering the streets of Colonial Williamsburg is entertaining. Cliff noticed a small crowd gathering across the street and so led us over to see what was going on. We happened on a band of and they were hilarious. I actually recorded video but can’t get the file format small enough to post! They were obviously very talented musicians but clearly valued tom foolery over musical precision! They engaged the crowd and were another of the many delightful “happen-upons” here.

It was on a visit to the weaver and spinner’s shop that I stumped them with the first question they couldn’t answer. While all of these shops and business are set up to educate they are also very much working businesses. They produce (using the traditional crafting methods) the goods sold in the local shops but they also produce most of the materials used to run the town. For example, the ladies in this shop would have produced the cloth used to make all of the costumes. It all makes for a very authentic experience! Anyway back to my spinner who is talking to us about the dyes used to colour their wool. Nearby North Carolina was a major exporter of the indigo used as their blue dye. Sounds rather convenient until we learned that England, wanting complete control over everything produced by the colonies, requires that the indigo be shipped first to England and then sold back to Virginia! Can you blame them for wanting independence?!! Through the course of the conversation she mentioned that stale human urine was used as a catalyst for indigo at the time so their shops were usually on the outskirts of town and rather smelly! I asked how in heavens anyone ever discovered that stale urine was a catalyst of indigo and she was intrigued by the question. She said she had never been asked before and while part of her job was running the shop, another part of her job when she is out of character, is research. She thanked me for the question and assured me if there was an answer she would find it! As an aside, she also told us that bleach they used was a mixture of cow manure and buttermilk. She knew that that had come about as a result of a farmer’s wife who had manure on her skirt. As she worked some buttermilk splashed on her skirt and left a white spot that wouldn’t come out! If it could do that to your dyed skirt, imagine what it could do to your cotton that was not dyed! Voila!

 

Throughout the day there are certain spots where performances take place, like the re-enactment in front of Charlton’s Coffee House yesterday. Today, on a tip from George Consitt, we were in a backyard in town where some slaves had gathered to talk, in secret, about the news of the rebellion and how it might affect them. There is always danger in a single story and it wonderful to hear a different perspective on life during that time. The slave population of Colonial Williamsburg made up more than 50% of the total population so there is a very significant story there!

Back to wandering the street we go into to visit the wig maker. Yet again another wonderful surprise as we engage in local gossip, learned more about fashion in the 18^th century than I ever considered and gained an ever deeper appreciation of life here. We watched as she knotted 4-5 strands of hair at a time onto a silk thread. These manes were then attached to cotton skull caps to create various wigs. Depending on the materials used and the length and complexity of the final do, the cost of the wigs could vary from an average day’s wage to what someone might earn in a month or two. Though not considered wealthy, she did confide that she made a very good living and would certainly be thought of as middle class. Walking in a wig shop with Cliff, we assumed we were an easy target for a cheap shot! These people are in no need of cheap shots and this woman prattled on for ages without seeming to notice Cliff’s obvious need for her services. It was as we were about to leave that she leaned toward Cliff and in a stage whisper asked if he was really going to continue about with that “fringe” on his face. She was gesturing to his beard and when Cliff asked if there was a problem she confided that his “lower class scruff” identified him as very common! She assured him that she could also “look after” this for him and it was part of the service she provided to the town. She quickly produced her tools and we learned all about barbering in the 1700s!

 

Wandering down to the blacksmith we were marveling at the foliage. Not just here but throughout the state everything is lush and green and the plants are huge! When we drive along a road looking for a gas station or even a big spot like a Walmart, everything is well camouflaged and the GPS is sometimes required to find what is right in front of you! Rhododendrons here are 80 foot trees! They look like our rhododendrons, they have the same blossoms, but here they are massive trees! Under one such tree we find the blacksmith working away with a FEMALE apprentice?? We asked about this but were assured that not only here but back in Europe a female trade person was not unheard of. Quite frankly we were skeptical and when we were back in a Wi-Fi zone Cliff checked it out...gotta love Google! They were quite correct and in fact we learned that hundreds of years earlier there are records of female blacksmiths in Europe – not many but they were there!

Hiding out under the cool trees.

A "Dear Old Mum" to keep us cool!

Tavern's of the day were what we would call a Bed & Breakfast.

Inside the Magazine. The instuments were as important as the weapons since that's how orders were issued!

The only real challenge we have had with our exploring is the incredible heat! We stay in the shade and the buildings are mercifully cool but by late afternoon we’re wilted! Beginning to agree that it’s time to call it a day we headed to the Governor’s Palace to meet the bus. A tour is just beginning and so we join in. Compared to any other building in Colonial Williamsburg this house would be set apart. The Governor clearly embraces his role as the King’s representative and the pretention borders dangerously close to tacky, thus gaining the title  “palace” by the local citizens. Entering into the foyer we discover an interesting decorating choice. Perhaps somewhat practical as we consider the time and the chance of attack, certainly definitive in its communication of power and might we find we are greeted with swords and guns decorating every wall surface! The swords are crossed to create a pattern, no doubt some interior designers attempt at creativity in the 1700s but faced with 520 weapons hardly says, “Come on in and put your feet up, we’re happy to see you!”

The thing we will all remember the most though is the young maid who offered the tour. To say this young lady was excited would be an understatement. I mean I can get would up about something but this girl blew my levels of excitement out of the water. He heels didn’t even touch the floor as she pranced about! Perhaps being a bit unkind here but we all agreed that this encounter at the end of a hot day was a little more than we could appreciate and so we realized it really was time to call it a day.

 

Looking out through the Palace gates.

Chandelier made entirely of glass!

The gardens were extensive. Peeking through the hedge to a secret garden!

To be honest still feeling a little full of pancake we opted to go back to the trailer and nibble for supper. A restful evening in the air conditioned trailer watching the next few episodes of Suits was another great end to another great day!